Beard oil and beard balm are the two products every beard care brand sells, and most men buy one, use it occasionally, and wonder why their beard still itches or will not lie flat. The products do different jobs. Once you know which job you need done, the choice is obvious.
The short answer
- Beard oil hydrates the skin under the beard and softens the hair. It has no hold. Use it if your beard itches, flakes, or feels coarse.
- Beard balm conditions the hair and gives it light to medium hold. Use it if your beard is long enough to need shaping, or if you have stray hairs that will not stay down.
- Most men with a beard under an inch need oil. Most men with a beard over an inch benefit from both.
What beard oil does
Beard oil is a blend of carrier oils, sometimes with essential oils for scent. It is designed to be absorbed, not to sit on top. Its main job is the skin under the beard.
When you grow a beard, the skin underneath still produces its natural oil, but that oil has a much larger surface area of hair to coat and never makes it to the ends. The skin dries out. Dry skin under a beard itches, flakes, and produces what people call beard dandruff. Beard oil replaces that missing moisture directly at the skin.
The secondary job is softening the hair. Beard hair is coarser than scalp hair. A few drops of oil worked through it makes it softer to the touch and easier to manage.
Our Beard Oil Serum is pharmacist-formulated with natural plant seed oils and vitamin E. It is lightweight and absorbs fast, so there is no greasy residue. It comes in three scents: Sandalwood Musk, Citrus & Cedar, and Patchouli & Lemon.
What beard balm does
Beard balm is a solid. It combines seed butters and oils with a small amount of wax or similar structuring agent. You warm it in your palms until it melts, then work it through the beard. The butters condition the hair and the structuring agent gives it hold.
Balm sits on the hair rather than absorbing into the skin, which is why it does less for itch and more for shape. It tames flyaways, helps a longer beard hold its line, and adds a slight sheen.
Our Beard Balm is non-greasy with a medium hold, made with premium seed butters, botanical oils, and vitamin E, in the same three scents as the oil.
Which one to use, by beard length
Stubble to half an inch: Oil only. The skin is what matters at this stage, and there is nothing to shape. Two or three drops after a shower, rubbed into the skin.
Half an inch to one inch: Oil daily. Balm optional, on days when it will not behave. This is the stage where itch is worst because the hair is long enough to pull moisture away from the skin but too short to hide the flakes.
One to two inches: Both. Oil in the morning to the skin, balm through the hair to shape. This is where a beard starts to have a shape to maintain.
Over two inches: Both, and a comb. Oil to the skin, balm to the length, comb through to distribute and shape. Longer beards also benefit from a weekly deeper condition: a slightly heavier application of oil before bed.
How to use beard oil
- Start with a clean, towel-dried beard. Oil absorbs best into slightly damp skin.
- Put 3 to 6 drops in your palm depending on length. Rub your hands together.
- Work your fingers through the beard down to the skin. Massage the skin, not just the hair.
- Run your hands down the length to distribute what is left.
- Comb through if the beard is long enough.
How to use beard balm
- Scrape a fingernail-sized amount from the tin.
- Rub it between your palms until it is fully melted and clear.
- Work it into the beard from the roots out, shaping as you go.
- Pay attention to the areas that misbehave: the mustache, the cheek line, the chin.
- Comb or brush into place.
Using both together
Oil first, balm second. The oil goes to the skin and the balm goes to the hair. If you apply balm first it will seal the hair and the oil will not get through. Give the oil a minute to absorb before you apply balm.
Do not skip the wash
Neither product works well on a dirty beard. Oil and balm applied over sweat, food, and yesterday's product just build up. Wash the beard two or three times a week with a beard wash rather than shampoo, which is formulated for scalp and will strip the beard. Our 3-in-1 Beard Wash cleans beard, body, and hair, removes buildup, and preserves the natural moisture. Follow with oil on a damp beard.
Frequently asked questions
Can I use beard oil on my face if I am clean shaven? Yes, it is a good light moisturizer. Our Post Shave Lotion is designed for that, but a drop of beard oil works.
Will beard oil make my beard grow faster? No. It makes the hair you have healthier and makes the skin more comfortable, which makes it easier to stick with growing it. Nothing in a bottle changes the growth rate.
Is beard balm the same as beard wax? No. Wax is mostly structuring agent and gives strong hold with little conditioning. Balm is mostly butters and oils with light to medium hold. For most beards, balm is the right choice.
How often should I apply? Oil daily. Balm as needed, usually daily for beards over an inch.
Which scent should I pick? Sandalwood Musk is warm and classic. Citrus & Cedar is fresh and clean. Patchouli & Lemon is earthy with a bright edge. If you cannot decide, the Beard Oils 3-Pack has all three.
Start here
If you are new to beard care, start with the Beard Oil Serum. If your beard is over an inch, the Beard Bundle has wash, oil, balm, and comb together. Pharmacist-formulated, made in the USA, by a family business since 1979.
